Boy 1 - Black, Red, and White

   Boy 2 - White with Black Eye Patch

   Boy 3 - Solid White

   Girl 1 - Black Brindle and White (Tri)

   Girl 2 - Fawn and White

   Girl 3 - Black Brindle and White (Tri)

   Girl 4 - Brindle and White

Often people think the process of breeding via A.I. will result in smaller litter sizes or lessen the chances of pregnancy by a large margin. Due to our results over the years I can honestly say I don’t see the difference. The last two A.I. breedings we conducted ended up with litters of 7 puppies per litter.

The key to successful breeding is proper timing for mating. Introducing the two dogs is an important factor as well. Approximately a week after a female goes into heat will begin testing her daily to see where she is in her ovulation. When she shows signs of entering her beginning stages of ovulation we will introduce the dogs so they can get comfortable around each other. This is done while both dogs are on a leash. The biggest mistake breeders make is prematurely attempting to breed two dogs when the female isn’t ready. As many Bull Terrier breeders already know, a female that doesn’t wish to breed won’t tolerate an eager stud that’s determined to mount her. This could turn into a fight quickly and/or result in causing the female additional stress and fear from the studs unwanted mating. Continued introduction in this manner will result in the female continually defending herself from this male even through her ovulation stage. Additionally, she may carry this fear every time she goes into heat in the future.

The most effective way to introduce two dogs slated for breeding who do not know each other is to do so when the female begins her ovulation and starts flagging. By this time she will be wanting to breed and have a lot more acceptance towards a proven and experienced stud dog that doesn’t wish to waste time playing. Supervision and constant monitoring is a must during breedings and at no time should two bullies who haven’t been raised together be left alone to breed on their own.

Illustrated below is a good example of three different Estrus Test Strips that were used on three females who were in heat.

The first strip shows that the female is just starting to come into ovulation. Chances are she’d be flagging at this point and excepting the stud for mating. The second strip shows no signs of ovulation which means it’s either too early or too late. Attempts for mating wouldn’t be effective. The last test strip indicates a female that is in full ovulation and breeding during this time would be optimal.
Testing females for their ovulation stages using this method if what most Vets call a “Smear” test. The Estrus Strips are cheap to purchase and very easy to use. Hopefully the picture of the tests results provide a good idea why it’s important to test for ovulation. As an example, although all 3 females are in heat with no blood discharge had I introduce female #2 to one of my studs they would most likely attempt to mount her regardless of her ovulation stage. The female, knowing she isn’t ready to breed, would either sit down once he mounts, completely avoid the stud, or go on the defense in an aggressive way. This is what I consider to be an inappropriate introduction for breeding which can cause stress on the female and create fear and anxiety even when she comes into ovulation making her automatically avoid the stud every time she encounters him.
Here’s a photo of a more effective (and expensive) ovulation tester.

 One of these will run about $450 but for those breeders like us who that provide stud service often to customer dogs it may prove to be a good investment. Easy to use and provides a lot more data than a test strip. Most Vets wouldn’t have one of these and simply tell you they conduct the “Smear Test.”

One of the greatest benefits of testing for ovulation is the fact that it takes away the guessing games of knowing when it's necessary to breed. More importantly it provides you with knowing when artificial Insemination is required. There's been many times that we've had females come into full ovulation that aren't flagging and don't want the stud anywhere near them. Most of the time it's with females who weren't socialized well with other dogs to begin with and sometimes it's because they are young and have never been bred before. It's without question that a well experienced stud dog can make any female nervous because he knows what's going on and what his job is. With this said, he may not wish to spend too much time courting, sniffing, and playing. Some females will except this dominant breeding behavior others won't. However, in the event the female is ovulating and doesn't wish to cooperate with the chosen stud at least you know that AI is warranted at the time vice convincing yourself it's too early and she'll be more attentive towards breeding in a couple days when you think she'll be in ovulation.

Anyhow, I hope this information proves beneficial for those breeders looking for a little information in regard to the importance of testing for ovulation.  

I have heard that some BT bitches can be pretty hard on their pups while others are "model moms", that pups need to be orally infused with pedialyte, we've seen where, during birth, the owner would take each pup from it's birth sac and clip the umbilical cord instead of allowing the mother to do so, they would allow the pup to suckle for a moment then remove it to a holding box with either a heat lamp or heating pad. We've heard that pups need to sleep separate from the mother. What I would really like is to get good solid advice on these issues and any other that would in the end make for a safe event that would ultimately provide a good start for the pups and reduce the stress on the mother. So we're ready to learn! Thanks so much!

Lin,Cathy and of course "Abby"

A Puppy's Critical Stages of Development

The Neonatal Stage is from birth to 2 weeks. . A puppy brain is only developed
enough to control breathing, heartbeat, and maintain a steady state of being.
Neonatal puppies are unable to regulate their body temperature but will seek
warmth and cry when they are cold or hungry. Consequently, it is up to the
breeder to provide an environment that is draft free and of consistent
temperature (80-90 degrees) for the first two weeks. The best way to ensure
ample nourishment is by daily weight checks which evidence a steady gain. While
the eyes and ears are closed, researchers do believe puppies are born with some
sense of taste and smell. Research has demonstrated that brief periods of daily
handling and specific forms of stimulation, such as the “Super Dog” program,
will have positive effects on both the neurological and physical systems. The
“Super Dog” program, originally known as the BioSensor Protocol, was developed
by the military and found to have the most optimum effects when implemented
between days three and sixteen. Five exercises comprise the daily program with
each one lasting for 3 to 5 seconds. In his article, “Developing High
Achievers” (originally published as “Early Neurological Stimulation”), Dr.
Carmen Battaglia sites benefits of the “Super Dog” program which include
stronger adrenal glands, stronger heartbeats, and more tolerance to stresses as
well as resistance to disease. On a cautionary note, too much stimulation has
been shown to have adverse effects. For more information on Dr. Battaglia’s
work, please refer to http://www.breedingbetterdogs.com/achiever.html.



The period of two to three weeks is considered a Transitional Period. Its
beginning is marked by the opening of the eyes (sight improves gradually from
this point) and concludes at the onset of hearing. Crawling both forwards and
backwards and attempts to walk happen during this week. Appropriate non-slip
bedding in the whelping box will be helpful, as you will notice increased
movement about the box. At this time puppies can tolerate lower temperatures,
between 70 and 80 degrees, which will be a relief to Mom.



The next definable period is an Identity Awareness Period that occurs from
three weeks through sixteen weeks and contains within it sensitive times where
interventions can be critical to a puppy’s development. Socialization at this
time is critical for proper attachment development to humans and other species
as well as confidence in a variety of environments. A broad range of humans
(men, women, children, ones with hats, coats, umbrellas, beards, glasses, etc.)
must be experienced as well as a variety of environments and other animals.
Dogs will only become fluent in “dog” with a broad spectrum of exposures to
breeds and ages. Age defines the nature of these experiences which will begin
at home. Starting at around three weeks friends can come by and handle the
puppies. By the fourth week begin changing the puppies environment by setting
up a pen in other areas of the house. By the fifth week they can begin to
explore the outside on warm, sunny days. Have visitors over of all ages and
sizes. Once they get to seven weeks puppies can go on short outings to puppy
friendly places like a friend’s house, dog friendly banks and post offices,
etc. It is a good time to start brief play dates with other puppies of similar
age and introductions to puppy friendly adult dogs as well. At this time
puppies should experience environments that are positively stimulating, such as
playing on puppy agility equipment. Well known behaviorist and author, Dr. Ian
Dunbar, says that by the time a puppy is four months he should have met four
hundred people to meet Dunbar’s criterion for a well-socialized puppy. From the
socializing perspective, this article suggests an ideal, however, your
veterinarian may have concerns about your puppies immunity and vaccination
protection. Do consult with your veterinarian or other professional resource.
Be vigilant about your puppy’s mental and physical safety. Finally, this is a
time when puppies need to learn to be alone. Not learning to be relaxed when
alone can lead to separation anxiety later on. 



In the third to fourth week, the first set of teeth are emerging and
consequently it is possible that puppies may experience their first negative
response from their mother for suckling too hard when they nurse. She also may
be ready to start the weaning process and will let the pups nurse less
frequently. So it is here that the first opportunity arises for the pups to
learn about inhibiting their bite. This is a critical reason for pups to be
reared by their dams, as she will be the first teacher of bite inhibition. Mock
play also begins in this week among the littermates. Also during this time,
toys of different materials should be put in the environment and there should
be different textures for them to walk on as well. Now is the time puppies will
leave their sleeping area to relieve themselves so its helpful to have a
distinction in surface texture.



It is important for the litter to be kept together and with their mother into
the seventh week as it is a critical socialization period. The puppies learn
appropriate deference to their mother, which they will then be able to transfer
to other relationships. A hierarchy within the litter is established at this
time and critical social skills are developed and imprinted through rituals of
play and mock fighting behaviors.



Toward the end of the seventh week is an optimum time for bonding and for
puppies to be placed into their families. The brain is developed and is ready
for the stimulation of learning and socializing as an individual, out of the
litter context.



There is a Fear Imprint Stage between eight and ten weeks. Its duration is
variable, sometimes lasting for two days or up to two weeks. The owner may
notice a sensitivity to loud and/or unusual sounds. Socialization and exposure
need to be continued at this time however it is recommended that puppies stay
in a familiar environment during this period. 



The next critical stage of development occurs between the fourth and seventh
months and is called the Flight Instinct Period. Suddenly your compliant,
velcro puppy becomes Christopher Columbus and turns a deaf ear while heading in
the away direction. It is marked as a critical period as the pup comprehends
the following: once he is away from you, you have no magic to make him come
when you call and he is able to process this information from short to
long-term memory. The behavior of not coming when called can quickly become a
learned behavior. Puppies must be kept safe during this time by using a leash
unless they are in a fenced in area. Coinciding within this time of
independence is the teething process. Some breeds and individuals have a harder
time with this than others. Red, swollen, sore gums with erupting teeth can
make puppies mouthy and irritable. There may be a regression in house training
progress as puppies increase their water intake in an effort to soothe their
gums. The puppy may object to necessary protocols such as nail cutting,
grooming, ear cleaning, leash walking and taking away toys or food. These
objections must be worked through now, as the puppy needs to learn the
difference between play and necessaries. Puppy Kindergarten classes should be a
puppy priority at this time.



Between six and fourteen months there is a Second Fear Imprint Stage, which
relates to fears of knowns and unknowns. All of a sudden the fire hydrant on
the street that has been there since the puppy’s first walk has morphed into a
terrifying monster or the couch that was in the puppy’s picture since the
beginning has suddenly become on ogre. When these fears pop up, build
confidence with humor and play rather than soothing the puppy though it. Let
the hydrant or couch become a treat dispenser.



Also between six and fourteen months there is the most committed chewing
behavior. The adult teeth are in but are not committed in the jawbone. The
mandible is the last bone to grow and as it does there is a physiological need
to chew. The chewing can become destructive if not managed properly. This chewing
is usually at its height between seven and ten months. Hormones and the
challenges of puberty and adolescence are also apparent during this period.
There can be defiance and challenges with both other dogs and humans. It is a
time to focus on your relationship with your dog as well as his relationship
with other dogs. Keeping your adolescent dog well exercised and with plenty of
appropriate chewing material available is essential. Manners classes can be
helpful and supportive.



The period of one to three to four years is referred to as the Maturity Period.
Puppies evolve into adult dogs. The larger the breed, the longer it takes to
reach maturity. There is physical as well as mental maturity. It is a time when
both genetic and environmental potentials are realized. Renowned geneticists
and behaviorists, Scott and Fuller, maintain that ultimately a dog’s behavioral
makeup is 35% genetic and 65% environmental, i.e., training, management,
socializing, diet and health care. So your knowledge of puppy development and
the resultant actions you take will make a huge difference in your life long
relationship with your dog.

--Mary Remer--

If I could go back in time to our first few litters I can guarantee we'd be doing things different based on what we know now. Like anything else, becoming proficient in something takes knowledge and experience.

Many new Bull Terrier breeders have already discovered the difficulties and hardships involved in breeding Bull Terriers. It is without a doubt a time consuming commitment that many cannot handle. There's a lot more involved when it comes to breeding than putting a male together with a female in hopes of a getting the female pregnant and there's many key concerns when whelping a litter of puppies. On average I notice roughly 80-90 percent of every Bull Terrier litter born being advertised by the breeder after the puppies are 4 weeks of age. Much of that reason stems behind the lack of confidence that all puppies will be healthy and survive and do not wish for a puppy to be sold the day after it was born only to explain to someone a week later that the puppy died due to the mother killing it either by accident or deliberately. Yes, I know, this could happen regardless of how well the litter is looked after and taken care of but these occasions should be a rarity seldom seen or experienced.

In the event you have any questions or concerns in regard to any breeding or litter subject please don't hesitate to ask.